red '66 Mustang Archives - John Austin Motorworks

’66 Mustang Coupe Completed!

mechanic55 — Thu, 22 Oct 2020 20:46:43 +0000

Some shots of the '66 Mustang as we wrap up this project. Got lots of positive comments from passersby's!

What do you think? Be sure to share if you dig it as much as we do.

Click image to view gallery.

1966 Mustang Coupe by John Austin Motorworks

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Finishing the power brake conversion

mechanic55 — Thu, 22 Oct 2020 20:21:12 +0000

We finish out the power brake conversion on the '66 Mustang by adding a vacuum port to the intake system. The intent was to separate the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) from the rest of the vacuum operated items (brake booster, transmission, distributor).

So, we whittle out a carb spacer plate from some 1/2" aluminum so a dedicated PCV port can be added. The original port in the intake will handle the other chores.

The butterflies on the Weber carb are different sizes so the center hole has a unique shape.

Here a bung is temporarily held in place with a bolt for welding.

Custom carb spacer with port

Austin TIG welds threaded bung to the plate

The hole in tapped for a barbed hose fitting and everything reassembled. The new fitting pulls engine vapors through the PCV valve on the valve cover.

The new fitting pulls engine vapors through the PCV valve on the valve cover

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“Whoa, Nellie!”

mechanic55 — Mon, 19 Oct 2020 19:29:12 +0000

Initial test drives of the '66 Mustang proved that an upgrade from manual drum brakes to disc was good (and better yet with a quality pad), but still required more 'leg effort' than we think the owner will be comfortable with. So, we're in the process of retrofitting power brakes to the system.

This involves adding a vacuum booster to the firewall, modifying the pedal bracket under the dash as well as the brake pedal itself to change the ratio when pressed.

We'll see what the improvement is after the system is refilled with fluid and bled of air.

This power brake retrofit uses a compact vacuum booster and master cylinder for a later Fox Body Mustang.

The brake pedal hanger is removed from under the dash and cut so a reinforcing place with different mounting holes can be welded added.

The assembly is upside down in this picture with the brake pedal pointing up. A hole is drilled in the pedal arm and a new pin welded in which changes the ratio when pressure is applied. It's just tack welded in place here so we can check fit.

Master Cylinder pushrod pivot pin is relocated

The pedal bracket requires some reshaping with a hammer before final welding.

The bracket is final welded to the new mounting plate.

Welder-up!

The old distribution block is removed and a new disc/drum proportioning valve installed.

New brake lines are required to run from the master cylinder to proportioning valve. We fabricate new lines using Nicopp (nickel/copper) which is easy to work with won't rust like steel.

The end of the new lines must be double flared with a tool like this.

After a couple of steps, the double flare is formed.

A tube nut compresses the flare and seals the joint in the companion half of the inverted flare - found on the master cylinder and proportioning valve.

A tube nut compresses the flare and seals the joint.

Formed lines with inverted flare fittings are installed.

Everything is mocked up and fitted. Just need to tighten lines, bleed the system, and connect the booster to a vacuum source on the engine.

Master cylinder and brake booster installed

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New shoes for the Mustang

mechanic55 — Tue, 06 Oct 2020 19:09:20 +0000

We test fit one of the new 'Magnum 500' wheels on the '66 Mustang. New shoes make all the difference!

Classic style 'Magnum 500' wheel test fit to assure proper clearance everywhere.

Beautiful machined aluminum finish with gloss black inset

Super nice chrome metal 'Mustang' center caps will replace the generic plastic (Scott Drake/Legendary) ones supplied with the wheels.

(Update: We learned from the vendor these are not actually compatible with these aftermarket wheels. They will work with certain factory original Magnum 500 wheels. We're stuck with using the generic caps).

Magnum 500 wheel center cap

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A sneak peek at the new ‘Pony’ Interior, a deluxe option

mechanic55 — Tue, 15 Sep 2020 23:23:21 +0000

A quick video shot of the completed interior...

https://www.johnaustinmotorworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Interior-Shot-01.mp4

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More candy, please…

mechanic55 — Sat, 12 Sep 2020 23:18:43 +0000

Fresh badges go on and our donor pieces (to replace crash damaged ones) get some candy coating....

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Where were we?

mechanic55 — Mon, 07 Sep 2020 23:11:20 +0000

Lets see, where were we...? Oh yeah, one step forward, two steps back. And so it goes. We sanded and re-cleared the fenders and trunk lid for the '66 Mustang.

Glue weatherstrip to deck lid, install deck lid and align. (Check!)

Hang the front fenders, hood, and align.(Check!)

Install hood latch and grille support. (Check!)

Install headlight buckets, lower grille panel and grille. (Screech! Whoa, back it up)

What's this? The driver side headlight bucket assembly is not lining up to the brand new grille correctly - at all? It's way off. That front end collision skeleton in the closet is coming out. They repaired the hood but left the old grille and headlight bucket tweaked. Wonky! Careful measurements confirm the casting is badly twisted.

Reproduction parts like this don't fit well. 99% of all used originals are broken. We find an original bucket on Ebay, out of Texas, that's "not broken".

Wait a week....

It arrives but it is broken. Austin strips the part and makes repairs to the zinc die cast (potmetal) piece. Not easy to do.

The good news is it will fit and live in peace and harmony with the grille pieces - as it should. The bad? It must be primed and painted to match. C'est la vie.

Fenders and hood are installed and aligned

Gettin' artsy. One of two horns live up behind the grille.

Grille support and hood latch assembly.

Headlamp buckets/extensions and lower grille support are laid out for careful assembly.

The actual 'buckets' that the round headlamps go into. These have screw adjusters and a spring that allow you to aim them.

They were pretty crusty so they get bead blasted and re-painted.

Buckets are bead blasted and re-painted.

A brushed stainless bezel will keep the glass lamp secure.

Retrofitted Weber 2 barrel carb.

The replacement healight bucket/extension assembly is test fitted. We kept the original horsey emblem, but the grille is new (and not bent out of shape like the old one)

The replacement healight bucket/extension assembly is test fitted

Once painted, the front bumper and lower valance will cover the lower half of the nose

The zinc alloy die cast headlamp bucket/extension. Commonly referred to as pot metal, the material was commonly used for various trim pieces. It's brittle and once bent, it has a tendency to break upon straightening.

The pieces will be painted to match.

The zinc alloy die cast headlamp bucket/extension

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Two steps forward, one back…

mechanic55 — Sat, 15 Aug 2020 22:50:46 +0000

We're getting down to the final stages of reassembly on this '66 Mustang Coupe. Yet, it often feels like two steps forward, and one step back - over and over again. Sometimes the setbacks are small. For example, we need a unique clip inside the door mechanism that you've got to order and wait several days for. Or a problem discovered: like brake lights that won't turn off because there's no adjustment at the switch and the pushrod is actually just a tad too long. So, the brake master cylinder is removed, the rod cut, made adjustable, and TIG welded back together, reinstalled, brake system bled again, etc.

The biggest was when it came time to fire the engine for the first time and break-in the camshaft. It ran on about 3 cylinders until we determined the 'performance' cam was holding valves open. The solution? Scrounge a set of adjustable rocker arms and pushrods from another engine to replace the non-adjustable originals.

As we bolt the remaining sheet metal on the car we decided the paint finish on a few pieces just wasn't up to par so it's sanded and clear coated again.

Such is life when doing resto work with modifications. We're getting close - just ain't got it yet.

The brake master cylinder push rod is cut and modified to make it adjustable before TIG welding back together.

The mostly assembled car is moved out so that a temporary 'paint booth' can be created in the shop.

The engine and compartment are mostly complete.

Electronic ignition fires the modified inline 6 engine immediately.

The interior is 99% complete. Just needs the new door panels installed and the front seats bolted in.

Austin contemplates adding fresh coats of clear to the sanded truck lid.

A fender with a fresh application of clear coat. A temporary paint booth and creative stand help make it possible.

A fender with a fresh application of clear coat.

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Mustang booty shots

mechanic55 — Sat, 18 Jul 2020 22:35:44 +0000

We know this old pony was backed into or rear ended multiple times so things were tweaked out of shape. When we went to test fit the new bumper, it fit as badly as the crumpled up one we took off.

The beat-up bumper in the photo below is pushed high and rolled forward, contacting the quarter panel extensions and leave a huge gap at the bottom.

Mustang bumper before

After straightening the bumper mounting brackets, we ended up taking a pie cut out of each one to change their shape and align the new bumper to the body. Once welded up and painted, things come together as they should.

Austin traces 4 pie-shaped pieces to be removed from the bumper mounting brackets.

Pieces are cut from the brackets, leaving them joined where the lines meet.

Once cut, the brackets are bolted to the bumper and the bumper fitted to the car so the brackets can be bent to the desired angle.

Once the angle is set, the brackets are removed and welded back solid.

Cutting bumper brackets

And voilà. The bumper is mounted and lower guards installed

Bumper guards attach behind the bumper and through the lower rear valance. The lower valance panel was replaced because the original was full of holes and body filler.

Bumper and guards with new valance

A beautiful reproduction fuel filler cap

Fresh chrome tail lamp bezels, and lenses.

Stylish reverse lights in the lower rear valance. Everything about the old ones was deteriorated.

Side glass and mechanisms are in and await a myriad of adjustments.

The Weber DVG carb. the engine compartment just needs some final plumbing and wiring.

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Mustang assembly progress…

mechanic55 — Sat, 13 Jun 2020 21:56:52 +0000

It's been a while since the last post but progress is being made on the '66 Mustang.

Most of the dash has been reassembled. Rear axle and suspension is back in. Engine and transmission installed. Fuel and brake lines plumbed.

Door and rear quarter glass assemblies are almost ready to be installed. The vent windows have been disassembled and rebuilt. They're riveted together so everything had to be carefully taken apart, stainless polished, new divider bar seals riveted in and carefully put back together.

A new windshield was bedded in and soon the back glass will go in too.

See photo captions for more details.

Repairing rear brake backing plates

Grooves where the rear brake shoes contact are welded up and ground smooth.

A 'RetroSound' radio replaces the stock AM radio. It's designed to look and fit much like the original but uses modern electronics. The unit features an external input for so you can connect your iPhone or other device for tunes.

'RestroSound' radio assembly

The 'RetroSound' stereo is assembled and will replace the old AM only radio in the foreground

The original dash speaker is disintegrating. Sound will be piped through a modern one designed to fit the dash opening. A pair of Rockford Fosgate 6x9's will go in the package tray out back.

Old and new dash speakers

The dash is restored and reassembled with a new pad - just need to connect the instrument gauge cluster. The steering column is also in (covered) and it will get a brand new wood grip wheel. The original was broken and in bad shape.

Mustang dash being assembled

A manual disc/drum brake master cylinder (for a Maverick) is fitted and plumbed with all new brake lines. This will be safer than the old single reservoir 'jelly jar' style unit.

Dual reservoir master cylinder and plumbing

Engine and transmisison are installed. Accessories to be added.

New chrome bezels and tail light lenses make a big difference out back.

Tail lights and bezels installed

The vent wing windows are disassembled so that rotten, cracked weatherstrips can be replaced with fresh rubber. They and other parts must be riveted together - a tricky, time consuming job. But, unless you want water leaking in, it's necessary.

Some of the stainless was badly scratched with age. It's progressively sanded, then polished on a buffing wheel.

New divider bar seals are installed in vent windows

The wing window assemblies look and will function remarkably better.

Austin trims some of the sheet metal so the 6x9 speakers will fit at the rear window.

Windshield installed. Always a little nerve racking - and messy with the bedding compound.The tape marks where the retainer clips are for installing the stainless trim.

A new windshield gets installed and bedded in. Stainless trim will surround it.

Windshield installed and sealed

Gas tank is cleaned up, painted, and reinstalled. It's been replaced once already and was in good shape. We discovered the plastic float on the sending unit had a hole though so a new brass float was installed. A problem like that will give you erroneous fuel level readings.

Mustang fuel tank is reinstalled

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