Getting Exhausted…
With the engine now running we can begin to see areas or systems that need some 'adjustment'. One of the first things noticed is that the transmission would not go into first or second gear while idling.
Remember, we're adapting the original clutch pedal, linkage, and clutch assembly to work with the T-5 transmission from an S10 truck so the geometry is a little different. The adjustment on the original linkage was just about maxed out and though it appeared to release the clutch, obviously it wasn't quite enough.
The solution was to take about an inch out of the clutch pedal to adjuster rod.
With this rod shortened, I found that the end of the threaded clutch fork adjuster interfered with our custom brake pedal linkage when the clutch was depressed.
So, an inch was cut off the end of the fork adjuster rod too. Clutch pedal free-play was set and voilà, proper gear selection with the engine running was restored.
These trucks didn't come with turn signals. Someone had retrofitted an aftermarket switch for hot rods and I reworked the connection to plug into our new harness. It just mounts to the steering column with an ugly worm gear hose clamp, but I dressed it up for a nicer appearance. The interior is now 99.9% complete.
I wanted to get an exhaust system at least started so that the truck could be moved around without so much 'fanfare' (noise). So I visited one of my favorite local muffler shops and got in line on their schedule.
While waiting our turn we assessed what we had or didn't have for bed parts. We had a painted box, some wood, and some old hardware which needed to be replaced. I ordered up some polished stainless bed strips and fasteners to put the bed together.
Originally there were angled metal strips spot welded to each bed side from the factory. Someone removed them and went to great lengths to bodywork the panels flat for paint. Now we've got to attach the new stainless ones, more or less 'invisibly'. I have a plan.
One of the metal cross members for the bed (called sills) had to be notched and modified to fit over the top of the fuel tank without interfering. A cut off wheel, welder, and a little paint do the job.
The day finally arrived for exhaust work and the truck was trailered to the shop. This is when I came to the conclusion that the brakes drag - badly! I need to check the pushrod between the vacuum booster and master cylinder to see how it is adjusted. If it's too long it may be pushing the piston in the master cylinder and applying the brakes slightly. Ugh. That means the MC has to come off again.
Anyway, the muffler shop fabbed dual down pipes for the dual exit headers and Y'd them together before entering a Dynomax Super Turbo muffler. The name sounds impressive, right? We used one of these on the 6 cylinder Mustang project and it sounded pretty good - almost like a real V8.
With everything going on at the back of the truck there's not enough room to run a tail pipe over the axle and out the back. Once the bed and running boards are installed, the truck will go back in for a tail pipe that will exit the side in front of the rear tire. We'll make sure there's a fancy chrome tip.